How to spend two days in Copenhagen

Much like its smørrebrød, a Copenhagen city break has endless flavours. With historic castles, colourful canal buildings and as many green spaces as there are types of pastry, you could return to the Danish capital time after time and still discover something new.

Even two days in Copenhagen is enough to realise that the city is undeniably cool, classy and contagiously laidback. After all, this is the home of hygge (the concept of cosy contentment shared with others), and having your fill of sweet treats in chic coffee shops is whole-heartedly encouraged.

From ticking off some of the city’s most iconic attractions to sampling your way through food markets, here’s how to experience Copenhagen’s best bits in 48 hours.

Day one: Art and gardens

Tick off Copenhagen icons

Start your city break as you mean to go on: by tucking into brunch at Kalaset. This cute spot just minutes from Nørreport station serves up irresistibly fluffy pancake stacks topped with fruit, maple syrup and more.

The sugar rush will make easy work of the 15-minute walk to the Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK), Denmark’s largest art museum. Permanent exhibitions display masterpieces by C.W. Eckersberg, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse, while the Sculpture Street houses Danish sculptures spanning 150 years.

Then, swap art for royal artefacts at Rosenborg Castle. Built in 1606 for Christian IV, the 400-year-old castle’s well-preserved rooms and possessions flaunts Renaissance royalty at its finest. The real jewel of the castle, however, is in the basement. Quite literally, as it holds the entire Danish treasury.

Rest and refuel

Surrounding the castle is the charming King’s Garden. The immaculate flower beds and tree-lined avenues practically scream picnic potential, so rest and refuel on the lawns (there are several Netto supermarkets nearby to stock up on snacks). If the weather doesn’t play ball, the smørrebrød selection at Orangeriet is delicious.

Exit the garden onto Gothersgade Street and it’s a straight walk down to Nyhavn, passing the city’s grand central square, Kongens Nytorv. Nyhavn harbour’s paint-box houses and bobbing sail boats won’t disappoint. Pause at one of the restaurants for an afternoon aperitif or treat yourself to an ice cream from Vaffelbageren as you wander around.

There’s only one place to spend the rest of your day: Tivoli Gardens. This sprawling city park is a fantastical mix of amusements and greenery, mixing roller coasters and fairground rides with fountains and flowers. Concert stands, gift shops and themed restaurants fill the gaps – no wonder Walt Disney was (reportedly) inspired.

Get your heart racing

Tivoli only gets more enchanting in the evening. Twinkling lights illuminate the garden and the roller coasters are even more thrilling after dark. Check out the music programme to see what open-air concerts are on offer – sing-a-longs and dance parties are frequently on the agenda.

For dinner, the Tivoli Food Hall (accessed from the garden’s northwest corner) has a dozen or so vendors serving up fresh sushi, noodles, fried chicken and more. Lap the hall at least once to weigh up your options. If you have a sweet tooth, candy floss or popcorn is never far away.

Day two: Museums and markets

Get back to nature

Cafe Flottenheimer is a top spot for a fuss-free breakfast – think scrambled eggs or granola bowls washed down with great coffee. A 15-minute stroll will bring you to the Natural History Museum of Denmark, where animal skeletons, prehistoric fossils and rare plant collections await. The renowned Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition is also an annual exhibit here.

Head to the Botanical Garden for even more natural wonders. Enjoy a peaceful stroll around the lake, admiring the lush trees, flowers and shrubs before getting a taste for the tropics in the colossal glass Palm House. End in the Butterfly House to witness a kaleidoscope of wings fluttering among pineapple plants.

Embrace the counterculture

For lunch, Torvehallerne market is a foodie's dream where you can pick up fresh vegetables, cinnamon buns, seafood and tapas. Once you’ve refuelled, Copenhagen’s best shopping street, Strøget, is just a ten-minute walk away. Here, on one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, you can shop international brands and designer boutiques. Detouring down the side streets for vintage finds and craft homeware is a must.

Next, hop on the metro at Kongens Nytorv and go one stop to Christianshavn to visit Christiania. This distinctly edgy and community-controlled neighbourhood is the home of artisans and bohemians and has been a harbour of counterculture for over 50 years. Expect hippy markets, street art and reggae bars.

From here, let the sky-high spire of the Church of our Saviour lead you to her doors. Inside, there’s an almighty organ and elaborate marble altar, as well as a climbable spire. Take the 400 narrow steps up through the bell tower to the roof, where the final 150 spiral you to the church’s top. Panoramic views are your reward.