Is the Stockholm Archipelago summer’s best-kept secret?

Summer on Sandhamn

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

We pick up the trail on Sandhamn, one of the archipelago’s more developed and accessible islands. It’s home to around 100 permanent residents but sees a steady flow of yachts, hikers and holidaymakers in summer. The ferry from Stockholm drops us off close to where the SAT begins its 8km (5 miles) loop around the island.

We skip the big party at the Seglarhotell, opting instead for a dose of calm: an invigorating session of kallbad (cold-water swimming) followed by warming up in the hotel’s floating saunas.

It starts our first day of hiking on a chipper note, the cloudless skies reflecting our good mood. Within minutes of setting off, the port town has faded behind us. We’re walking a sandy trail flanked by scattered pines, bright lingonberry bushes and quaint summer holiday houses, each seemingly straight out of a Swedish storybook.

The route leads out to Trouville, a soft-sand beach on the island’s southeastern tip, before looping back toward town along the quieter west coast.

Going solo on Utö

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

In summer, Utö’s population can swell to 70,000. But when we arrive – after a detour past the rugged islets of Huvudskär, where cottages are only accessible by private boat – only a handful of people remain.

We start hiking Utö’s 17km (10.5 miles) trail together, but it’s not long before our group naturally thins out. Some pause to admire the views, others speed ahead. The terrain invites it: there are gentle trails through pine and fern forest, challenging rocky scrambles, and long, flat stretches with sweeping sea views. Eventually, we’re all walking alone.

Utö has a long history. It's home to some of Sweden’s oldest iron ore mines, dating back to the 12th century, but in the golden light of late afternoon, it feels untouched. Wandering beneath tall pines with sunset streaming through the trees, I finally understand what Marie meant. This really is magic season.

We all reconvene at Utö Värdshus, our base for the next two nights. The guesthouse, a favourite of Swedish celebrities in the 19th and 20th centuries (even Greta Garbo stayed here), still exudes a kind of understated elegance. At dinner, we feast on Baltic herring and butter-fried char – dishes that taste of the sea, the season, and a long tradition of island cooking.

Hello, Ålö

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

Although technically connected to Utö by a land bridge, Ålö feels worlds away. It’s wilder than any island we’ve visited yet. Our group is dropped off by car, and we’re joined by our guide – and creator of the SAT – Michael Lemmel, who’s leading us on a counterclockwise hike around the island’s 12.4km (7.7 miles) trail.

It’s all for the wow-factor, he says, as we stop early on for a fika break overlooking the neighbouring island of Rånö. Of course, he’s right – as the creator of the now-global Swimrun challenge, which started right here in the archipelago, he’s been coming to these islands for years.

While Lemmel’s fingerprints are all over the trail, from the signature yellow (for the sun), blue (for the sea), and silver (for the shimmering horizon) waymarkers to the behind-the-scenes negotiation with island landowners, it’s on Ålö that we see his most thoughtful touches: hand-built benches in seemingly impossible places and newly built open-sided shelters complete with fire pits and barbecues for overnight hikers.

The route takes us through thick forest and across rocky plateaus. There’s a quick stop at the shuttered Båtshaket, a beachfront restaurant that closed for the season days earlier, and a dip at Ålö Storsand, a long beach backed by forest where the Baltic once again delivers an icy jolt.

Beach heaven on Nåttarö

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

Nåttarö is our final stop on this snapshot tour of the SAT. One of the few sand islands in the archipelago (the other being Sandhamn), it’s the pick for beaches – though you’ll need to work for them.

We set off on a 10km (6.2km) circuit that proves just as varied as anything we’ve seen so far: steep granite outcrops, dense forest carpeted in moss and lingonberries, and deep silence broken only by bird calls and the crunch of boots on rock.

There’s just one permanent resident on Nåttarö, so when we pass a pair of fellow hikers, everyone’s momentarily startled. After running through the niceties hikers tend to share (“Nearly there!”, “Happy hiking!”), we see why they seemed so unhurried: Storsand.

The beach feels truly castaway – wide, golden, empty, and framed by pine trees and open sky – though picnic tables and barbecues hint at its popularity in peak summer. The cluster of rooms and restaurants at the ferry port, which will chug you back to the mainland at Nynäshamn in under 40 minutes (summer only), says the same.

When we arrive back at the port, Nåttarö Tavern is still open, though the last public ferry to the mainland left days ago. We need to arrange a private taxi boat, but the added effort somehow makes the silence and space even more special.

How to get to the Stockholm Archipelago

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

From Stockholm, Cinderellabåtarna ferries serve popular islands like Sandhamn and Grinda. The North–South Line (Nordsydlinjen) links the main SAT islands between late June and mid-August. Outside these dates, private water taxis and charter boats are the main options. Start planning via the Waxholmsbolaget website for route maps and seasonal ferry schedules.

When to go

Credit: Steph Marinkovic

Magic season, of course. Mid-August to early September is the sweet spot, when the weather is mild, the sea still swimmable and the trails blissfully quiet. But even during high summer (late June to early August), the archipelago is a stunning and surprisingly peaceful alternative to other European tourist hotspots. Just make sure to book your accommodation ahead in peak weeks, as even the remotest cabins can fill fast.

This trip was provided by Visit Sweden. For further information on the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, see stockholmarchipelagotrail.com.