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What to do in Split

Café culture is as much a part of life in Split as its museums, galleries and historic sights, so factor in time for lingering over cups of coffee. Don’t miss the daily food market, Pazar, east of Diocletian’s Palace, and the fish market outside the palace’s western walls.

Diocletian’s Palace

The magnificent ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, right near Split’s seafront, are an astonishing sight. Its courtyards and sunken squares abound with life, filled with café tables and conversation, and its cellars stocked with shops. Even the Cathedral of St Domnius, whose bell tower rises above the columns, is squeezed in beside the monumental courtyard known as the Peristil. But the palace isn’t just a museum piece – several thousand people live here within its vast walls, too.

Beaches in Split

Although Split’s nearby islands usually spring to mind when you think of beaches, the city itself has plenty nearby. One of the most popular is Bačvice just to the east of the ferry port, which has shallow, clear waters. Two other little beaches follow further east, Ovčice and Firule, while at the foot of the Marjan peninsula, you can dive into the sparkling waters of Kašjuni Beach.

Riva

Running along Split’s long seafront is the Riva, the perfect introduction to life in Split. Lined with cafés and restaurants, with terraces shaded by palm trees and awnings, the Riva harbour is the artery of the old town. Stop for coffee or cocktails, meet friends and join the party during Split’s festivals. Or you can just relax, catch the sea breeze and watch the world go by.

Meštrović Gallery

Croatia’s best-known sculptor, Ivan Meštrović, built a palatial summer home in Split in the 1920s. It’s here that you’ll find the largest collection of his works, even more so than in his former residence in Croatia’s capital, Zagreb. As his sculptures are found in several locations throughout Split, you’ll soon become used to his innovative style. The spacious gallery and its large gardens are an evocative setting for Meštrović’s powerful and often poignant sculptures.

Marjan Hill

Crowning the Marjan peninsula to the west of central Split, Marjan Hill is the city’s green lung. Blanketed in Mediterranean flora and pine forests, the parks and gardens are crisscrossed with promenades and shaded roads, offering many points from which to soak up sublime sea and city views. Dotted about the peninsula are a couple of medieval churches as well as hermit’s cave dug into a cliff face and the pretty little Bene beach on the peninsula’s northern coast.

Where to stay in Split

For families

The Veli Varoš district to the west of central Split is less hectic than the old town but is still within easy reach of the main sights. Running along the seafront are several pine-shaded beaches, including Obojena, and all the green lushness of Marijan Hill is just to the north. East of the centre of Split, you’ll find several resort hotels spread around the series of beaches, including Žnjan and Trstenik, all of which have a wide range of facilities for families.

For travellers on a budget

While the old town has spent the past few years filling up with smart and usually expensive hotels and guesthouses, you can still find some budget hostels and apartment rentals not far from Diocletian’s Palace. Veli Varoš is a better bet for affordable guesthouses and three-star hotels, as well as private apartment rentals. You’re also likely to find budget accommodation in the Manuš neighbourhood, which is only a short walk from the outer walls of Diocletian’s Palace.

For food and drink

It’s hard to beat the old town for sheer range of restaurants, bars and cafés. It’s not just the ones squeezed within Diocletian’s Palace, but also the places tucked into the labyrinthine streets beyond the walls. There’s a good selection, too, along the broad Marmontova avenue that slices through the old town, as well as on the Riva. Veli Varoš is good for traditional restaurants, where you can find Dalmatian delicacies – such as delicious air-dried pršut ham – as well as gorgeous Adriatic seafood and fish.

For nightlife

The old town is packed with bars and has a lively buzz, especially during the summer. But the action doesn’t usually go beyond midnight. If you want to experience some of the best nightlife in Split, you’ll want to base yourself in one of the hotels, guesthouses or apartments in Bačvice. All around Bačvice beach are bars and nightclubs that don’t close until the early hours. If you’re visiting during the summer Ultra Europe dance festival, you can stay in the Poljud neighbourhood near the stadium where the festival is held.

For culture

If you love history, you won’t be able to resist the chance to sleep within the walls of an ancient Roman palace. There’s a wide choice of private accommodation and some hotels within Diocletian’s Palace itself, as well as a dizzying range throughout the rest of the old town. Staying in Veli Varoš gives you the chance to be close to the sights of the old town as well as Meštrović Gallery and the churches of Marjan Hill.